Lately I've rediscovered brandies. There are two basic types I like: Mediterranian, which are rich and semi-dry; and French, which are dry, austere and elegant. My two favorites in the former are Cardinal Mendoza (Spain), and Metaxa Grand Fine (Greece). My French favorites are Hennessy VSOP (Cognac) and Chateau Laubaude XO (Armagnac).

French brandies get most of their character from the wood they're aged in--the longer the ageing, the smoother they taste. Immature brandy has an oily taste. Most Cognacs are underaged--the designation "VS" means it's supposed to have been aged in the cask for five years, but most of the producers bottle them after three years. "VSOP" is supposed to be in cask for ten years, and Hennessy is far and away the best at meeting that standard. "XO" stands for "Extra Old," and can be 15 years old-plus. Armagnac is much lesser known than Cognac, but is a better buy, dollar for dollar.