From the Mob Museum to the Tropicana Mob Experience, Vegas does its best not to disappoint. While there is no shortage of mob-like entertainment and I personally don’t find anything more underworld-ish or entertaining than the craps tables, I do like to immerse myself in my environment. That especially holds true for food. I wouldn’t fault someone for trying to find a New York slice while paying their respects at the Bugsy Siegel memorial but you might want to sink your teeth into something with a little less neon and a little more shade.

Capos Italian Restaurant is tucked away in a quiet little corner of Vegas, away from the strip. It is a cab-ride-and-a-half getting there, but like any good Speakeasy, it’s worth the effort. Make reservations, because getting in is part of the challenge. Half the fun of the place is figuring out where the door is and how to gain entrance, but once you do, the place is pure, unadulterated gangster.

Decked out in rose-colored velvet, dark wood and red leather, Capo’s has all the trappings of a Soprano Sunday dinner. The dining room is dark, broken with mood lighting and mini chandeliers. The décor is from prohibition era, and the wallpaper is straight out of a Speakeasy. The waiters at Capo’s take on a “conspiratorial” tone and allude to various “backroom” activities that diners shouldn’t worry about. On select weekends they even have a Rat Pack crooner.

I’m also told on the odd occasion, they even screen “The Godfather.”

The food is pretty serviceable for Vegas standards. For a “Steakhouse,” they are a little light on steak selections, and the wine list could be deeper, but they make a great Chicken Parm and the prices ($39 for Rib Eye diner) aren’t going to kill you. The menu, full of names like “Da Dom’s Pasta” and “Goodfellas Piccata” can be charming or tiring, depending on your mood, but with a little bit of wine, and a little good company, Capo’s can be pure magic.